Englishman Daniel Lee succeeds Riccardo Tisci as Burberry’s artistic director.

A mobilized industry, the international media seek little news: fashion weeks are often the times when houses choose to make their major announcements. It was only natural that Burberry decided to announce the appointment of Englishman Daniel Lee as artistic director on Wednesday, September 28, in the middle of Paris Fashion Week, two days after the house’s spring-summer 2023 show presented in London.

A meeting that marked the end of the collaboration between Riccardo Tisci and the English house. Rumors have swirled in recent weeks that the Italian, who has been at the helm of style for nearly five years, is leaving. Leading American newspaper Women’s Daily Wear Already published an article along these lines on August 30. On Monday, September 26, at the hangar on the outskirts of London where the parade took place, tension was palpable within the ranks. Tisci, 48, was smiling and playful as she told the press that the collection was inspired by the beaches of the British coast. “His Mighty One” Since his arrival.

Armed with his gothic-edged aesthetic and his thirteen years at Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci breathed new life into Burberry, modernizing the inexplicable tartan and injecting streetwear created in 1856 into the house’s British codes. Trench coats. “Ricciardo has been instrumental in Burberry’s transformation. He has refined and modernized our creative language, improved our product offering and attracted a new generation of luxury customers to our brand.”Jonathan Ageroyd, the label’s CEO, says in a press release.

Confusion and controversies

So he will be replaced on Monday, October 3 by designer Daniel Lee, who will oversee all future collections. “I am honored to join Burberry, He said in a statement. Together with the team, we will build on Riccardo’s legacy and write an exciting new chapter for this legendary house. I am delighted to return to London, a city that has always inspired me. »

Born in Bradford, England, Lee graduated from the prestigious Central St. Martin’s School in London. At 36, he worked for Celine, Maison Margiela and Balenciaga before joining Bottega Veneta in 2018. It was with this Italian label that he showcased his talent. It must be recognized that he has an undeniable penchant for enthralling the younger generation with his strong and easily recognizable creations and his masterpieces in war joints for luxury houses. According to Kering’s 2019 annual report, published in February 2020, its bag is the fastest-selling bag in Bottega Veneta’s history.

Despite some controversy, her departure from the brand in November 2021 took the industry by surprise. In January 2020, he took the decision to shut down the brand’s Instagram, Facebook and Twitter accounts. Then, in April 2021, amid an epidemic, the house organized a party on the sidelines of the parade at a club in Berlin, where a curfew was in effect. Then many videos were released on social media and created controversy.

After his hasty exit from Bottega Veneta, persistent rumors suggested that Lee was very difficult with his collaborators. Burberry’s fame doesn’t know how to cool the house. The first collection signed by Daniel Lee for the brand will be unveiled during London Fashion Week in February 2023.